Pruning Roses

We have heard that sometime in the middle ages a Monk had a precious grape vine. One winter his very hungry donkey ate the plant back to the hard stems. The Monk was angry and almost had the animal killed for his transgression. But at the last moment he relented. The next year,the plant produced far more grapes than ever before. The Monk took this to heart and began to prune the plant regularly. Perhaps this is how horticultural pruning got started.†

Pruning will not turn a bad rose into a good one. But it certainly can re-invigorate a rose that is a little over-grown. Deadheading prolongs blossoming on remontant roses*. Removal of dead wood decreases the chances of disease. Thinning increases the vigor of the remaining canes. Shaping causes the aesthetic appeal of the rose to increase.

*Remontant Roses – (blooming or producing a crop more than once a season)

Why Prune?

• To re-invigorate an old and unproductive rose.

• To cause the plant to produce fewer, larger blooms.

• To remove old and diseased canes.

• To shape the plant.

• To control when the plant blooms during the season.

• To deadhead and encourage repeat blossoms.

When to Prune?

[Hill Country, TX] [Zones 8-9] [– 10 – 20 degrees F lowest average temp]

Anywhere temperatures rarely go below 10 degrees F, gardeners can prune and shape roses as early as mid-February.

And then again in May, after the first flush of blooms is finished.

And then again in August or September for the ultimate fall flowering.

Each pruning comes right before the plants push out new growth, but never when they are stressed by extreme heat or cold.

When you prune roses make sure pruners are sharp, and always disinfect them before and after each pruning cut, using rubbing alcohol.

Pruning stimulates growth, so it is best not to prune after September. Frequently one can tell when a rose is emerging from dormancy by seeing nodules form on the surface of the canes where the canes will be sprouting leaves. Once these nodules have formed, the rose has begun moving sap from the roots into the canes, so it is best to prune before this point.

Deadheading, of course, is done after a rose blooms. If the rose is not remontant, deadheading does little more than make the plant look slightly cleaner. If you like the appearance of hips, then it is important not to deadhead after the fall bloom period.

How to Prune:

The second thing to consider is how much to cut off. Every rosarian, has her own ideas on how pruning should be carried out. Some rosarians advocate cutting a plant most of the way to the ground. Others advocate minor trimming. And each cultivar responds differently to pruning. Some thrive on it; others languish after harsh pruning. Several rules of thumb exist:

• Remove all deadwood. (mandatory)

• Remove wood where canes cross and rub.

• Remove old wood that appears less vigorous than newer wood.

• Remove about 1/3 of the length of each cane, or

• Remove growth until the cane thickness is that required to support a large blossom or a spray of flowers.

• Remove wood to shape the plant.

• If the rose is languishing from old age or disease, prune severely and fertilize generously.

References:

† http://www.rosefile.com/RosePages/rcare.htm

†† http://www.rose-gardening-made-easy.com/when-to-prune-roses.html

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/fallgarden/zones.html